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I first ran Aberdeen as labeled from a seed lot that was marketed as a sativa-forward hybrid. I’ve now grown it twice indoors (one run in living soil, one in coco), and I’m comfortable sharing what I actually saw: how the plant behaves under lights, what the jars smell like after cure, and where things can go wrong. This Aberdeen strain review is written for growers and shoppers who want practical details, not poetry.
This Aberdeen strain review is based on those two runs and the notes I kept from seed to cure.
Quick profile (what I saw in my room)
- Type: Aberdeen sativa-leaning hybrid in growth pattern and effect (I treat it like an Aberdeen sativa-leaning hybrid for training and timing)
- Flower structure: medium density, calyx-forward, sticky resin late flower
- Terpene direction: citrus peel, piney resin, and a berry-vanilla finish after cure
- Best use window (non-medical): daytime or early evening for many people
In the sections below I’ll break down the Aberdeen terpene profile, the Aberdeen strain aroma and Aberdeen strain flavor I consistently noticed, then move into an Aberdeen grow guide with the specifics I use for dialed indoor weed and cannabis production.
Genetics and what’s actually known
If you’re hunting for a definitive family tree, Aberdeen is one of those names where public breeder documentation is thin. In my experience, that usually means two things:
- Different seed sources can sell different “Aberdeen” versions.
- The most useful information comes from how the plant grows, not who its grandparents were.
Across my runs, this Aberdeen strain review found that Aberdeen behaved like an Aberdeen sativa-leaning hybrid: faster vertical growth in early flower, a longer stretch than most indica-leaners, and a terpene set that stayed bright (citrus/pine) even when pushed with high PPFD.
If you’re shopping seeds, ask the vendor for: breeder name, generation (F1/F2), and whether it’s feminized seeds, regular, or autoflower seeds. Those details matter more than a romantic origin story.
Bud appearance and resin traits
On both runs, buds finished with a forest-green base and darker accents where night temps dipped a little. Trichome coverage jumped in weeks 6–8.
What I look for at harvest on this cultivar:
- Mostly milky trichomes with a small percentage amber for a brighter, more clearheaded experience
- Calyx swell without new white pistils throwing late
- A firm but not brittle bud feel when gently squeezed
Phenotype note: I saw two distinct Aberdeen phenotypes. One leaned more citrus/pine with longer spears; the other leaned sweeter with tighter clusters. Aberdeen phenotypes are worth labeling early, because they can finish a few days apart.
Aroma and flavor notes after dry and cure
Fresh off the plant, the Aberdeen strain aroma was mostly sharp citrus rind and fresh-cut conifer. After 10–14 days of drying and a 3–4 week cure, the Aberdeen terpene profile rounded out and the Aberdeen strain flavor became noticeably sweeter.
Here’s how I’d describe it in jars:
- Top notes: lemon-lime zest, faint grapefruit peel
- Mid notes: pine resin, fresh wood
- Base notes: blueberry candy and a light vanilla cream
If you’re chasing flavor, the cure is everything. When I rushed the dry, the Aberdeen strain flavor stayed “green” and the citrus turned harsh. When I held 58–62% jar humidity and burped steadily, the berry-vanilla finish came through.
Effects (recreational, not medical)
In this Aberdeen strain review, I’m keeping effects in the lane of typical recreational experience. People respond differently to cannabis, marijuana, and weed products, and dose matters.
For me, Aberdeen delivered:
- A quick mental lift and more talkative energy
- Better flow state for repetitive tasks (trimming, cleaning, organizing)
- A calm body feel that didn’t pin me to the couch when kept modest
Trade-offs I noticed:
- If I pushed too high a dose, the “busy mind” could feel distracting
- Harvesting too late dulled the brightness and increased body heaviness
If you want a more social smoke, I’d lean toward the brighter phenotype. If you want a slower evening vibe, the sweeter phenotype and a slightly later harvest worked better for me.
Aberdeen grow guide: environment targets I actually use
This Aberdeen grow guide is written for indoor growers, because that’s where I have repeatable control. Outdoor growers can use the same principles (light, climate, nutrition) but should expect more variation.
Light schedule and PPFD
Vegetative (photoperiod):
- 18/6 or 20/4 works fine
- PPFD: 300–600 depending on plant size and CO2 levels
Flowering:
- 12/12 for photoperiod plants
- Week 1–2: 600–750 PPFD while the plant stretches
- Week 3–6: 750–900 PPFD if the canopy and feed can support it
- Week 7–finish: 700–850 PPFD to keep ripening steady without bleaching
If you see tacoing leaves or pale tops, back off intensity or raise the fixture. Aberdeen tolerated strong light, but only when VPD and root zone EC were stable.
Temperature, RH, and VPD bands
My best results came in these ranges:
- Veg: 24–27°C, 55–70% RH, VPD roughly 0.9–1.2
- Early flower: 24–26°C, 50–60% RH, VPD roughly 1.1–1.3
- Late flower: 22–25°C, 40–50% RH, VPD roughly 1.2–1.5
For dense tops, I treat airflow as part of IPM. Good oscillation and a clean intake filter reduce powdery mildew risk more than any “miracle” spray.
Medium: soil vs. coco vs. hydro
I ran Aberdeen in living soil and coco. Both worked, but they drove different management styles.
- Soil: easier daily workload, but slower correction if you miss a deficiency
- Coco: faster growth and cleaner control, but it demands consistency
If you’re in hydro (DWC or drip), keep dissolved oxygen high and watch root temps. The plant can drink hard under high PPFD and a stable VPD.
Feeding ranges (EC/PPM) and what to watch
These are ranges, not commandments. Start low and climb with the plant.
Coco (my targets):
- Veg: EC 1.2–1.6
- Early flower: EC 1.6–2.0
- Mid flower: EC 1.8–2.2
- Late flower: EC 1.6–2.0
Soil (my approach):
- Light top-dress in veg, then a bloom-forward top-dress at flip
- Supplement calcium and magnesium if you’re under intense LEDs or using soft water
Common symptoms and fixes:
- Tip burn and dark clawing: back off nitrogen and total EC
- Pale new growth: check pH first, then consider iron or magnesium support
- Rusty spots: often calcium/magnesium imbalance under strong light
How to grow Aberdeen indoors: training and canopy control
If you only take one thing from this post, take this: Aberdeen stretches. That’s the core of how to grow Aberdeen indoors without fighting your ceiling.
What worked best for me:
- Top once in late veg (after 5–6 nodes) to slow the main leader
- Low-stress training to spread branches and level the canopy
- A light lollipop before week 3 of flower to reduce larf and improve airflow
- Defoliation in two passes: day 21 and day 42, focused on shading fans
Because Aberdeen phenotypes vary, I mark each plant and adjust training per structure. The spearier phenotype likes more support; the tighter one needs more airflow.
Aberdeen flowering time, harvest windows, and yield expectations
On my two runs, Aberdeen flowering time landed in the 9–10 week zone from the flip, with phenotypes finishing a few days apart. I’ve seen other sativa-leaning hybrids take longer, so I’d plan your calendar with flexibility.
Signs I use to call harvest:
- Trichomes mostly cloudy with some amber
- Pistils mostly darkened and receded
- Calyxes swollen and buds firmed up
Aberdeen yield potential depends heavily on light, root volume, and canopy management. With a flat canopy and strong PPFD, I saw respectable yields for a sativa-leaner. When I let it stretch unchecked, yields dropped because too much energy went into tall, airy tops.
Drying, curing, and preserving the Aberdeen terpene profile
If you want the Aberdeen terpene profile to translate into real Aberdeen strain flavor, handle the post-harvest like it’s part of cultivation.
My baseline process:
- Dry: 10–14 days at ~18–20°C and 55–60% RH, with gentle airflow
- Trim: after dry (dry-trim) for better terpene retention
- Cure: 3–6 weeks at 58–62% jar humidity, burping daily early on
When done right, the Aberdeen strain aroma stays bright without turning sharp, and the Aberdeen strain flavor keeps that citrus-to-berry progression instead of tasting flat.
Integrated pest management (IPM) and mold prevention
For indoor cannabis and marijuana grows, prevention beats reaction. My IPM routine is simple:
- Quarantine new clones or plants for 7–10 days
- Control humidity spikes right after lights off
- Use sticky traps to monitor fungus gnats and thrips
- Avoid spraying anything oily in late flower
If you’re in a humid region, don’t gamble. Keep late-flower RH under 50% and give buds room to breathe.
Aberdeen seed shopping tips (without the hype)
This section is for readers searching terms like “seed bank,” “feminized seeds,” “autoflower seeds,” and “order cannabis seeds online.” I’m not giving legal advice—always follow your local rules and regulations around weed and marijuana cultivation.
My practical Aberdeen seed shopping tips:
- Look for clear provenance: breeder name, batch date, and germination policy
- Check whether it’s photoperiod or autoflowering before you plan lighting schedules
- Store seeds cool, dark, and dry (an airtight container with desiccant is simple)
- Be skeptical of “too-good-to-be-true” yield claims; Aberdeen yield potential is real, but it’s not magic
If you’re comparing indica/sativa/hybrid categories, remember they’re shorthand. What matters is growth structure, flowering time, terpene direction, and the phenotype you end up with.
If you skimmed everything else, circle back to this Aberdeen strain review before you buy seeds or commit a full run—your environment will decide how Aberdeen performs.
FAQ
What’s the easiest way to dial in the Aberdeen grow guide for a small tent?
Start with stable climate and moderate light. Run 18/6 in veg, keep PPFD around 400–500, and prioritize airflow. In flower, ramp to 700–800 PPFD only after the canopy is even. The Aberdeen grow guide works best when you control stretch early.
how to grow Aberdeen indoors without nutrient burn?
In coco, keep feed consistent and avoid big swings. Start at EC 1.2–1.4, watch leaf tips, and increase slowly. In soil, avoid stacking too many amendments at once. Most “nutrient burn” on weed plants comes from overconfident feeding.
What is Aberdeen flowering time if I’m growing from seed?
Expect variability. My runs finished around 9–10 weeks of 12/12, but Aberdeen phenotypes can run longer. Track trichomes and bud structure instead of counting days.
Does Aberdeen have a strong smell during flower?
Yes, and it shifts. The Aberdeen strain aroma starts sharp and citrusy, then gets sweeter after cure. If odor is a concern, run a quality carbon filter and keep negative pressure in your tent.
What should I look for in the Aberdeen terpene profile when buying flower?
Ask for terpene testing when it’s available and pay attention to freshness. In my jars, the Aberdeen terpene profile expressed as citrus peel, pine resin, and a berry-vanilla base. Old, over-dried flower will mute those notes fast.
Is Aberdeen better in soil or hydro?
Both can work. Soil is forgiving and flavorful when managed well; hydro and coco can push faster growth. Pick the system you can run consistently, because consistency is the real driver of Aberdeen yield potential and quality.
Any final advice before I order seeds?
Use reputable vendors, read the fine print on shipping and guarantees, and plan your space for stretch. Those are the Aberdeen seed shopping tips that save money and frustration.
For a complete directory of cultivars, visit our Cannabis Strain Reviews.
